Great cider consists of a balance between acidity, tannins, sugar, alcohol, and aroma. Since very few single varietals of apple contain all of these elements in a nice balance, cider is usually made by blending multiple varieties of apples. Some of the most difficult apples to find are those that lend themselves to the production of hard cider, according to Chris Collins, proprietor of North Shore Cider Company, “When you combine cider apples – some are very bitter, some are very sharp – they make a great juice that you can ferment and give it a lot of complexity. They just aren’t apples that you sit and eat, or put in a dessert.” Planting of apple trees appropriate for hard cider production dwindled during Prohibition, and never regained its footing. Until now...